Lisbon, a guide to Alfama invites you into a maze of narrow, winding cobbled streets. This historic neighbourhood bursts with traditional buildings and picturesque views from its many miradouros. Unlike much of the city, Alfama survived the 1755 earthquake and still follows its medieval layout. The area climbs steep hills, so the best way to experience it is on foot, though the city’s iconic yellow trams also rumble through its streets. With all that in mind, let’s begin—starting at the city’s cathedral.
Se Cathedral
Lisbon, a guide to Alfama begins at the Sé Cathedral. Built in 1147, this is the city’s oldest and probably most famous church. Its imposing, fortress-like exterior leads into a moody, dimly lit interior. You’ll need to buy a ticket to enter, which grants access to the cathedral itself, the treasury, and the cloister.
A very short walk away is the Igreja Santo Antonio.
Igreja Santo Antonio
Just a short walk from the cathedral, the free-to-enter Igreja Santo António honours St. Anthony of Padua. He was born in 1195 on the very spot where the church now stands, and you can visit the exact birthplace in the crypt.
As you explore the church, take time to study the artwork. Each piece adds to the story, guiding you through the key moments of St. Anthony’s life.
Amalia Rodrigues Mosaic
Lisbon is filled with street art, and the Alfama district proudly adds its own flair. Here, you’ll find a striking piece depicting the face of Amália Rodrigues, the beloved actress and singer who grew up in Alfama. Crafted using the traditional Portuguese Pavement technique, the artwork takes on an even more dramatic effect—when it rains, Amália appears to cry.
In my Lisbon, a guide to Alfama we’ll visit a few miradouros (viewing points) let’s head to our first one.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia
From the churches, continue uphill until you spot a set of steps—usually crowded with other visitors. Climb them and walk into a small garden, where you’ll find the Azulejos Com Navios tiled wall. These hand-painted tiles are a Portuguese specialty, and as you explore more of Lisbon, you’ll notice them decorating buildings all across the city.
Next, step onto the Santa Luzia Miradouro, and let the scene open up before you. From here, panoramic views sweep across the terracotta rooftops and stretch all the way down to the Tagus River.
Portas do Sol
Right next door to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, you’ll find the smaller Portas do Sol, which offers its own stunning views of São Vicente de Fora Church and the National Pantheon. As you look out over the district, you might even catch these landmarks glowing in the sunlight—hopefully in better weather than we had.
As you wander around the viewpoint, you’ll find a few cafés where you can pause for a break. They also give you a great vantage point to watch the historic Tram 28 trundle past.
Castelo de Sao Jorge
Listed as one of Lisbon’s top attractions, the Castelo de São Jorge is often regarded as a landmark that should not be missed. Perched atop a hill, the castle is believed to date from the 11th century, although evidence has been found suggesting that a settlement had been established on the site as early as the 1st century BC. Today, the castle is operated as both a museum and a site of significant historical importance. However, throughout its long history, it has been used in various ways, including as a military stronghold, a royal residence, and even a prison, among other functions.
Visit the website for information and tickets.
Let’s move on. The next stop on my Lisbon, a guide to Alfama is another Miradouro, the Miradouro Graça.
Miradouro Graça
Even more amazing views of the city centre—and particularly of the Castelo de São Jorge—can be enjoyed from this viewing area. In addition, it is regarded as an ideal spot from which the city can be observed at sunset, when the landscape is transformed by warm, fading light.
Graça Convent
The Graça Convent, located atop one of Lisbon’s highest hills in the Graça district, is one of the city’s oldest and most historically significant religious sites. Founded in the 13th century, it has been rebuilt and expanded over time, particularly after the 1755 earthquake. Today, the convent and its adjoining church are admired for their impressive Baroque and Mannerist architecture, beautifully tiled chapels, and peaceful cloister.
The roof of the church has now been opened as an observation deck, from which amazing views across the city and the river can be enjoyed . Furthermore, access to the roof is provided for a small charge, and a drink of your choice is also included, making it more of an experience.
Sao Vincente de Fora Church
Founded in 1147 and commissioned by King Afonso I of Portugal as thanks for the successful Siege of Lisbon, the beautiful São Vicente de Fora Monastery and Church is situated just outside the old city walls. Inside, a series of lavishly decorated spaces can be discovered, and a museum featuring an extensive display of Portuguese tiles is also available to visit. Moreover, access to the rooftop is provided, from which even more amazing views of the city can be appreciated.
Entrance tickets can be purchased here.
National Pantheon
The dome is visible from most of the viewing points visited, and it is often wondered what the impressive structure might be. It is, in fact, identified as the National Pantheon, a monument that was completed after an astonishing 284 years of construction. Originally built as the Church of Santa Engrácia in the 17th century, it has since been transformed into the final resting place of several prominent Portuguese figures. The interior of the building can be visited, and a rooftop viewing area is also provided, from which sweeping views of the city can be enjoyed.
For information and tickets click here.
To finish a guide to Alfama
In this guide to Alfama I’ve highlighted some of the main attractions that you should see whilst visiting the area, but take some time just to wander the streets, search out places to stop for a coffee, a glass of wine or something to eat. It’s such a lovely place and a real pleasure to explore.
To discover more of my travel adventures click here.