The historic city of Haarlem often finds itself overshadowed by its larger neighbour, Amsterdam, just to the west. Nevertheless, travellers should not overlook Haarlem. As the capital of North Holland, the city bursts with energy and offers countless sights to explore. During the Middle Ages, Haarlem thrived as a hub of textile production and shipbuilding, thanks to its strategic location on the Spaarne River. Even today, the city preserves its medieval street plan and remarkable buildings from that era. Moreover, Haarlem’s layout consists of several islands divided by canals and the Spaarne River, giving it a unique charm. My morning walk exploring Haarlem starts in the centre of the city, the Grote Markt.
Grote Markt
The Grote Markt serves as Haarlem’s main city square, and several bustling shopping streets branch directly from it. It’s worth spending a little time here as there are some remarkable buildings that deserve a look. The medieval Stadhuis (City Hall), built in the 14th century, actively functions as the seat of the city’s government. In addition, the Hoofdwacht, dating back to the 13th century, has played many roles over the centuries—first as the city hall, then as a print shop, and even as a prison. Finally, the Vleeshal, whose name means “meat hall,” now hosts exhibitions. However, when it was constructed in 1603, it originally operated as a lively market for fresh meat.
Sint Bavo Church
The Sint Bavo Church stands as the main attraction of the Grote Markt, and its towering spire and striking Gothic style immediately dominate the square. Moreover, the current structure dates from the 15th century, although records reveal that a church has occupied this site since around 1307.
Inside, visitors encounter the renowned Christiaan Muller organ, built in the 18th century and once celebrated as the largest in the world. In fact, many legendary musicians including Mendelssohn, Handel, and Mozart performed on this magnificent instrument, adding to the church’s rich cultural legacy.
Spaarne River
I head towards the river and walk through Haarlem’s medieval streets. I cross the green Melkbrug—known in English as the Milk Bridge—a historic swing bridge spanning the water. In summer, outdoor cafés line this area, and canal cruises depart from here
Teylers Museum
Pieter Teyler, a wealthy cloth merchant and banker of Scottish descent, founded the Teylers Museum in 1784. As the oldest museum in the Netherlands, it showcases an impressive collection of exhibits spanning natural history, the arts, and science. Click here to find more information and purchase tickets.
I leave the museum, turn left, and spot the Gravestenenbrug, a drawbridge. I cross it and continue walking until I reach the Amsterdamse Poort.
Amsterdamse Poort
The Amsterdamse Poort dates from the medieval era and stands as the only surviving city gate of the twelve that once encircled Haarlem. Builders completed it in 1355, and its gothic style gave the city both a defensive stronghold and a grand entrance at the end of the old route from Amsterdam.
Koepelgevangenis
I walk a little further and spot the Koepelgevangenis, an old prison crowned with a huge domed roof. Builders completed it in 1901, and it operated as a prison until closing in 2016. After a major renovation, it reopened as a centre for the arts, education, and startups. Inside, the space impresses just as much as the exterior, with original features like the spiral staircase and several prison cells left intact
De Adriaan Windmill
The history of the De Adriaan Windmill stretches back to the 1500s, when builders constructed a defence tower to protect Haarlem from English and Spanish invaders. Adriaan De Booys, an industrialist from Amsterdam, later bought the site. The first windmill rose in 1779, but a devastating fire destroyed it in 1932. Local people rallied, raised funds, and rebuilt the windmill, which reopened in 2002 as a museum. When I visited, workers were giving it a bit of a makeover.
Bakenes
Crossing the bridge near the windmill takes me into the Bakanes. This island neighbourhood is lovely to wander around with its historic buildings and hofjes. There’s the beautiful 15th century Bakenessekerk with its ornate white tower.
Walking back towards the centre of town there are lots of pretty streets filled with historic buildings, some beautiful Dutch architecture and plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants.
Frans Hals Museum
Located in the 17th century Oudemannenhuis, the Frans Hals Museum houses famous paintings by Frans Hals himself as well as other ancient, modern and contemporary art. The building was originally a hofje founded in 1609 with thirty little houses situated around a courtyard. Although the home dates from 1609, only the main hall is still mostly intact. The rest of the complex has been renovated beyond recognition over many decades.
Look out for the Gasthuis Huisjes at the corner of Groot Heiligland and Gasthuisvest streets, they’re a beautiful row of 17th century almshouses that were built as homes for the elderly.
As I make my way back to the main square there’s a couple of interesting places that are worth a stop for.
Van Der Pigge
Why does this pharmacy fascinate me? Founded in 1849, it still displays a “gaper” above its door. Craftsmen carved these stone or wooden figureheads, often depicting a Moor, Muslim, or North African, and pharmacies in the Netherlands began hanging them outside in the late 16th century. Step inside today and you walk straight back in time.
Brouwershofje
I make my final stop at the Brouwershofje before returning to the square. The Haarlem Guild of Beer Brewers founded it as a charitable home for twenty‑two poor workers from the brewing industry. Today, the city council runs it.
After a busy morning walk exploring Haarlem, I return to the city’s main square. A few inviting cafés catch my eye, so I choose one, order a warm drink, and enjoy something to eat before heading back to my hotel. You might visit Haarlem one day too, I hope you do. The city has a lot to offer, and it’s only 10 minutes by train from Amsterdam. Put it on your list.
To read about more of my travel adventures click here.